Mending Clothes: Buttons, Hems, Seams and Holes Made Simple

A missing button, a fallen hem or a small hole in a favourite jumper is often enough to push a garment to the back of the wardrobe — and eventually into the bin. Yet most of these problems take ten or fifteen minutes to fix with a needle and thread, and no sewing machine is required. Learning a handful of basic mending skills is one of the most practical ways to save money on clothes, and it keeps the pieces you love in use for years longer.

This guide covers the small kit you need, the few stitches that do almost every job, and step-by-step instructions for the repairs that come up most often.

Why mending is worth learning

• Clothes are expensive to replace. A quality coat, a pair of good trousers or a well-fitting shirt can cost far more than the few minutes and pennies needed to repair it.
• Most damage is minor. Loose buttons, split seams and dropped hems account for a large share of the clothes people stop wearing.
• Repairs often get easier. The first button might take twenty minutes; after a few, it takes five.
• Mending is satisfying. Many people find it a calming, practical hobby, and visible mending — repairs that are deliberately decorative — can give a garment new character.
• It reduces waste. Keeping clothes in use longer is one of the most effective ways to reduce the environmental cost of clothing.

The mending kit

You do not need much. A small tin or box with the following will cover nearly every repair:

• Hand-sewing needles in a few sizes. A mixed pack is inexpensive. Finer needles suit shirts and delicate fabrics; larger ones suit denim, coats and wool.
• Thread in black, white, navy, grey and beige. These neutral colours match most clothes well enough. All-purpose polyester thread is strong and versatile; add colours as you need them.
• Small sharp scissors or thread snips, kept only for fabric and thread so they stay sharp.
• Pins and a small pincushion.
• A thimble, which protects your finger when pushing a needle through thick fabric.
• A seam ripper, a small tool for unpicking stitches neatly.
• A tape measure.
• A needle threader, helpful if you find threading fiddly.
• Spare buttons. Many garments come with spares; keep them all in one jar so you can find them.
• Fabric chalk or a washable marker for marking hems.
• Iron-on mending patches and fusible hemming tape for quick, no-sew repairs.
• Darning thread or wool and a darning mushroom, or simply a smooth object such as a light bulb or an egg-shaped stone, for socks and knitwear.

Five stitches that do almost everything

Running stitch

The simplest stitch: the needle goes in and out of the fabric in a straight line, leaving small, even stitches. It is used for gathering, tacking (temporary stitching) and some decorative mending.

Backstitch

A strong stitch that imitates machine stitching, ideal for repairing seams. Bring the needle up through the fabric, take a small stitch backwards, then bring the needle up again a stitch-length ahead of the last one. Each stitch overlaps the previous one, creating a continuous, sturdy line.

Slip stitch (ladder stitch)

An almost invisible stitch for closing seams from the outside, such as a split in a lining or a hole in a cushion seam. Stitches pass alternately through the folded edge of each side, and when the thread is pulled, the two edges close together.

Blind hem stitch

Used for hems, it catches only a thread or two of the outer fabric so the stitches barely show on the right side. Take a tiny stitch in the garment, then a slightly longer stitch inside the folded hem edge, and repeat.

Whip stitch (overcast stitch)

Stitches pass over the edge of the fabric to bind it, stopping fraying or joining two edges. It is useful for securing raw edges and repairing small tears in thicker fabrics.

Starting and finishing

Begin with a small knot at the end of the thread, or secure the thread by taking two or three tiny stitches in the same place. Finish the same way: a few small stitches on top of one another on the inside of the garment, then trim the thread. Thread length matters: about the length from your fingertips to your elbow is easy to manage without tangling.

Sewing on a button

This is the repair most people need first.

1. Remove any loose threads from the old button position, but note where it was.
2. Thread the needle and double the thread for strength, knotting the ends together.
3. Start from the back of the fabric so the knot is hidden, coming up exactly where the button sits.
4. Create a shank for buttons on coats and thicker fabrics. Place a matchstick or toothpick across the top of the button and sew over it; this leaves a little slack so the button sits above the fabric and fastens easily.
5. Sew through the holes five or six times. For four-hole buttons, sew in two parallel lines or a cross, matching the other buttons on the garment.
6. Remove the matchstick, bring the needle out between the button and the fabric, and wind the thread tightly around the stitches beneath the button several times to form the shank.
7. Finish on the back with a few small stitches and trim.

Shank buttons, which have a loop on the back instead of holes, are sewn through the loop and do not need an extra shank.

Fixing a fallen hem

1. Unpick any loose stitches of the old hem with a seam ripper.
2. Press the hem back into place with an iron, following the old fold line, or measure and pin a new one if you are shortening the garment. Check that the length looks even all round.
3. Pin the hem at intervals.
4. Sew with a blind hem stitch, using thread that matches the outer fabric, working around the hem with small, evenly spaced stitches.
5. Press again for a crisp finish.

For a quick, no-sew fix, fusible hemming tape can be ironed between the hem and the garment. It works well on many fabrics but may not survive frequent hot washes or suit very fine or stretchy materials.

Repairing a split seam

A seam that has come undone is one of the easiest repairs, because the stitching line is already there.

1. Turn the garment inside out and pin the seam back together along its original line.
2. Start a little before the split, overlapping the remaining intact stitching by a couple of centimetres for strength.
3. Backstitch along the seam line with small, even stitches.
4. Continue a little beyond the split into the intact stitching, then finish securely.

If the fabric itself has frayed at the seam, sew slightly inside the original line so the stitches catch solid fabric.

Mending small holes and tears

Small holes in woven fabric

For a small hole in a shirt or trousers, an iron-on patch on the inside of the garment can stabilise the area. For a neater repair, trim any loose threads, place a small piece of similar fabric behind the hole, and stitch around the edges of the hole with small whip stitches to attach it.

Tears along a straight line

A straight tear can often be closed with small slip or whip stitches, especially if reinforced from behind with a lightweight patch or interfacing.

Holes in knitwear and socks: darning

Darning weaves new yarn across a hole to rebuild the fabric.

1. Stretch the area gently over a darning mushroom or similar smooth object.
2. Using matching or contrasting wool, sew parallel lines of running stitch across the hole, starting and ending in sound fabric a little beyond it.
3. Weave across these lines at right angles, going over and under alternate threads to create a woven patch.
4. Keep the tension relaxed so the darn does not pucker.

Catch holes early: a tiny hole is far quicker to darn than a large one.

Zips

Many zip problems can be fixed without replacing the zip:

• Stiff zips often run smoothly after rubbing the teeth with a pencil lead (graphite), candle wax or a bar of soap.
• A slider that has come off one side can sometimes be eased back on at the bottom of the zip; if the zip has a stop at the bottom, it may need to be removed and replaced.
• A zip that splits open after closing may have a worn slider. Gently squeezing the slider's sides with pliers can sometimes restore its grip, but squeeze carefully to avoid cracking it.
• Broken teeth or a torn zip tape usually mean the zip needs replacing — a job many alterations shops do at modest cost.

Visible mending

Not every repair needs to be invisible. Visible mending uses contrasting thread, patches and decorative stitches to make the repair part of the design. Techniques such as decorative darning and Japanese-inspired running-stitch patching (often called sashiko-style mending) are popular ways to repair denim, workwear and knitwear while adding character. Contrasting patches on elbows and knees are a classic, practical example.

When to use a professional

Some repairs are better left to a tailor or alterations service:

• Replacing zips in jeans, coats and jackets.
• Repairs to leather, suede and heavy outerwear.
• Altering formal wear, wedding outfits and expensive tailoring.
• Major alterations to fit.

Professional alterations can still be far cheaper than replacing a quality garment. Repair cafés and community sewing groups are another option, where volunteers help you fix clothes yourself.

Prevention: fewer repairs in the first place

• Tighten loose buttons as soon as you notice them, before they fall off.
• Wash gently: turn clothes inside out, close zips and use cooler, gentler programmes (see our laundry guide).
• Use mesh bags for delicates.
• Avoid overloading pockets, which strains seams.
• Store knitwear folded, not hung, to stop it stretching, and protect wool from moths with clean storage and regular airing.

A beginner's first projects

1. Sew a button back onto a shirt or coat.
2. Repair a split seam in a pillowcase or lining.
3. Re-hem a pair of trousers with a blind hem stitch.
4. Darn a hole in a sock.
5. Add a visible patch to worn jeans.

The bottom line

Mending is one of the simplest skills for saving money and keeping clothes you like in use. A small kit, five basic stitches and a little patience are all you need to handle buttons, hems, seams, holes and many zip problems. Start with an easy repair, practise on old clothes, and before long the mending pile will be a quick job rather than a reason to buy something new.